Monday, July 23, 2012

Giant Jurassic Fleas sucked but couldn't jump

The shortest poem ever written is known as Lines on the Antiquity of Microbes or, more simply, as Fleas. It goes: Adam/  Had ‘em. It’s a cute verse, but we don’t need Blblical references to know what the first fleas fed upon. As with many questions about ancient life, we can turn to fossils.
Among a horde of insect fossils recovered from China and Mongolia, Diying Huang from the Chinese Academy of Sciences has discovered several species of giant fleas. There are nine individuals from three different species, and they hail from the middle Jurassic and early Cretaceous periods.  “These outcrops have given us thousands of exquisitely preserved insects, but fewer than ten fleas,” says Andre Nel, who led the study.
The fossilised insects had many features that identify them as fleas – ancient precursors to the ones we know and loathe. But they had many unusual traits too. For a start, they were much bigger. While modern fleas are just a few millimetres long, some of these ancient forms were ten times bigger. The males grew between 8 and 15 millimetres in length and the females reached between 14 and 20 millimetres.
They also hadn’t evolved many of the extreme specialisations that today’s fleas possess. They didn’t have the long hindlegs that allow modern fleas to leap great distances. Instead, their legs ended in long, curved claws, suggest that they were adapted to hang onto fur or feathers. They probably hung on to the coats of feathered dinosaurs and the earliest mammals.
And they would have certainly stabbed their hosts’ skin and sucked their hosts’ blood. Huang found that their mouthparts that were much longer and stouter than those of modern fleas – like drinking straws compared to hypodermic needles.
The stabbing siphons also provide a clue about the origins of fleas. They are very much like those of scorpionflies – a group of insects named after the males’ large genitals, which look like a scorpion’s sting. Many scorpionflies (like the one below) have long snouts that they use to probe the depths of flowers, and suck up nectar and pollen. At some point in their history, some of their members adapted to sucking a bloodier liquid.
“They probably began to reduce their antennae, eyes and wings, and to develop legs adapted for grasping on the bases of the feathers or fur,” says Nels. That takes us up to the earliest fleas at the start of the Cretaceous period. By the end of the Cretaceous, these insects had also evolved specialised legs that allowed them to jump from one host to another. They started to look like Tarwinia, another extinct species that, until now, was the earliest known flea.
Flies also evolved from another group of scorpionflies, which makes them a sister group to the fleas. But they made their debut during the Triassic period, some 50 or 60 million years before the fleas arrived. Nels thinks that fleas emerged much later because they couldn’t hang on to the naked skin of Triassic vertebrates. Only in the Jurassic, when animals started to evolve feathers and fur, could the early fleas anchor themselves while they sucked.
Reference: Huang, Engel, Cai & Nel. 2012. Diverse transitional giant fleas from the Mesozoic era of China. Nature http://dx.doi.org/10.1038/nature10839
Note: There are at least three species of the giant fleas but because of space restrictions, they haven’t been formally described yet – Huang will do so in another paper.

Monday, July 16, 2012


Learn How to Keep Bed Bugs From Ruining Your Vacation The Savvy Summer Traveler
Missy Henriksen Friday, July 13, 2012

Summer is officially here and millions of Americans have images of vacations dancing in their heads. Many things can and do go wrong on vacations, from lost luggage to a mean sunburn, most getaways are hardly ever foolproof. However, nothing can wipe out relaxation and pile on stress and anxiety more than bringing bed bugs home with you. Bed bugs feed on human blood and are best known for their uncanny hitchhiking abilities. So before any of these pests ride home in your suitcase, read on to learn what savvy travelers can do.
Before you hit the road, sky or rails, it’s important to be aware of ways to protect yourself and your family while traveling. Whether it’s during transit, your hotel stay or upon your return home, when it comes to bed bugs – prevention is the BEST cure. It may be one more thing to add to your vacation checklist, but it’s one that can make a difference. Are bed bugs really in hotels? Unfortunately, yes! These pests don’t differentiate between a 5-star hotel and cheap, low amenity motel. To them, a bed is a bed as long as a blood meal is sleeping in it (and yes, that means you!). A 2011 NPMA and University of Kentucky survey found that 80 percent of pest professionals have treated bed bugs in hotels and motels. Although bed bugs are found in numerous places other than hotels, most travelers will stay in a hotel at one point or another during their vacation, putting themselves at a higher risk of picking up these hitchhiking bugs. Once inside a hotel or home, bed bugs spread rapidly from room to room - through pipes, in vacuum cleaners, on clothing and luggage. In a hotel, bed bugs can even spread to neighboring rooms, since guests may end up moving to another room and because they can crawl through the walls between rooms.

What should I look for in a hotel?
•Upon entering the room, put your suitcase in the bathroom as that is the safest place for it. Bed bugs are least likely to hide in a bathroom.
•Pull back the sheets and inspect the mattress seams, particularly at the corners, for pepper-like stains or spots or even the bugs themselves. Adult bed bugs resemble a flat apple seed.
•Check behind the headboard, inside couch and chair cushions, behind picture frames and around electrical sockets.
•If you see anything suspect, notify management and change rooms or establishments immediately.
•If you do need to change rooms, be sure that you do not move to a room adjacent and/or directly above/below the suspected infestation. Bed bugs can easily hitchhike via housekeeping carts, luggage and even through wall sockets. If an infestation is spreading, it typically does so in the rooms closest to the origin. •Even if you determine your room is clear of any bed bugs, consider placing your suitcase in a plastic trash bag or protective cover during the duration of your trip to ensure that bed bugs cannot take up residence there prior to departure. What should I do when I return home?
•Inspect your suitcases before bringing them into the house. Your neighbors may give you strange looks, but better safe then sorry. Take the opportunity to educate them as to why you’re unpacking your suitcase on the front porch. You might save them from a bed bug infestation in the future.
•Vacuum your suitcase thoroughly before storing it. Consider using a garment hand steamer to steam your luggage, which can kill any bed bugs or eggs that may have hitched a ride home.
•Wash and dry all of your clothes - even those that have not been worn - in hot temperatures to ensure that any bed bugs that may have made it that far are not placed into your drawers/closet.
•Keep clothes that must be dry-cleaned in a plastic bag and take them to the drycleaner as soon as possible.

How will I know I have bed bugs? Maybe you didn’t check the hotel room as thoroughly as you thought or perhaps you were too tired to vacuum your suitcase. Perhaps you did everything right but a few days after you came home, you wake up with red itchy welts on your body and notice the telltale pepper-like stains on your sheets. A few bed bugs snuck by you and have made themselves at home. Don’t panic! Although bed bugs are a difficult pest to treat, pest professionals have many treatment options available to them and are successful in eliminating infestations. The key is to begin treatment as soon as infestation is suspected or discovered. Bed bugs are not a DIY pest, as evidenced recently by an Ohio State University study and treatments should be left to licensed and experienced pest professionals. If you suspect a bed bug infestation contact a pest professional.

Don’t let this happen to you!

For more information on bed bugs visit: http://www.pestworld.org/news-and-views/pest-articles/articles/the-savvy-summer-traveler/

Brought to you by the National Pest Management Association

Thursday, June 28, 2012

The term "hornet" is often used to refer to many of the wasps that build large papery nests. The most notable paper wasp is the baldfaced hornet, Dolichovespula maculata, and several species of yellowjackets (Vespula sp.), which are really wasps. In actuality the only true hornet found in the United States is the European hornet, Vespa crabro L. Description: Bald faced hornets are large, black and white, heavy-bodied wasps about 3Š4 inch (20 mm) long. They typically build exposed, mottled grey nests in trees or shrubs. Occasionally, the wasps will build nests under roof overhangs, in attics, crawlspaces and wall voids, or under decks or porches. The nests are constructed of a paper-like martial formed from chewed wood. The nests are often described as "football shaped", but they may exceed a basketball in diameter. Yellow jackets are house fly-sized wasps with distinct yellow and black markings and a few hairs. Yellow jacket nests are also constructed of paper, though they are tan in color, much smaller in size compared to the hornet nest and are usually found in an underground cavity. Common locations for nests are in lawns, particularly in sandy exposed areas, as well as at the base of trees or shrubs. Occasionally, yellow jackets will nest in attics or walls voids of houses or storage buildings.
Life History: An individual hornet or yellow jacket queen begins building a nest alone in the spring. Once a queen has produced enough workers to take over nest-building and foraging duties, she remains inside producing more offspring. The workers expand the nest, forage for food, feed the young and defend the nest. Like other predatory wasps, their diet consists mainly of other insects such as flies and bees. Bald-faced hornets will also feed on their yellow jacket relatives. They continue to enlarge the nest until fall when there may be 300-400 hornet, or 600-800 yellow jacket workers. Frequently, it is not until this time that the nest is noticed, although it has been there for many weeks, already. In the late summer, the colony produces reproductives--the insects that will mate. The mated female reproductives will serve as the next generation of queens in the following spring. The male's main purpose is mating and they cannot sting. Nests are abandoned by wintertime and the future queens seek shelter alone, in protected places under tree bark, in old stumps, or sometimes attics. The current year's nests are not reused the following spring.
Behavior: Yellow jackets, in particular, may be late season pests around picnics, trash cans and hummingbird feeders as they scavenge. The only way to control this presence is to locate and destroy the nest, which is rarely possible. As an alternative, keep all outdoor food and drinks covered when possible. Trash cans should be kept covered or have a flap over the opening. Defensive behavior occurs in response to nest defense. If the nest is not in the immediate vicinity the likelihood of stings is greatly reduced.
Control: The first decision to make is whether control is actually necessary. Two points to remember: • In spite of their reputations, hornets and yellow jackets are actually beneficial because they prey on many insects that we consider to be pests, such as cabbageworms. They also serve as food for bears, skunks, birds and other insects. They also are pollinators. • Unlike honey bees, hornet and yellow jacket colonies die out each year. If a hornet nest is built high in a tree, you may choose to simply wait until the colony dies out in late fall or early winter. The nest will slowly deteriorate from weather or from attack by hungry birds.
If a nest is located where people may be stung or if you (or others) are hypersensitive to bee/wasp stings, then colony destruction may be appropriate.
Here are some points to consider as you decide how to approach the problem: •Control is best achieved by applying a pesticide directly into the nest opening. This can be done at anytime of the day, but near dusk, most of the wasps are more likely to be inside the nest. You can use any of the aerosol "Wasp & Hornet" sprays that propel insecticide in a stream about 10-12 feet. Direct the spray into the nest opening and then move away from the area in case any of the wasps emerge from the nest. You may need to be repeat the treatment on the following evening.
• Long sleeved shirt and long pants may be worn when spraying to make the applicator feel more at ease. • Do not hold a lit flashlight or stand near car headlights or other lights. Emerging wasps may be attracted in that direction and sting anyone nearby. • Do not pour gasoline, petroleum or other hazardous chemical down a nest hole. This is extremely hazardous and environmentally unsound.
If the nest is in a wall void or other inaccessible area in your home, you may consider hiring a pest control company to do the work for you. If the nest is in a wall, it may be desirable to remove it if convenient after spraying to avoid attracting carpet beetles that can invade the home and attack garments made wool, silk or fur. Yellow jacket traps (commercial or otherwise) have not shown to be of any value in reducing a yellow jacket problem.


Adapted from Stephen B. Bambara and Michael Waldvogel, North Carolina Cooperative Extension Service, 2001